Further Down the Pilgrimage Path

日本語

Since 2008, Kagawa Prefecture has held the Shikoku 88 Temple Experience for Foreign Residents and Visitors twice a year, in spring and fall.  I have been involved with this program ever since the inaugural event and I am fervently hoping that the pilgrimage circuit will one day become registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

During the ninth Pilgrimage Experience, in addition to the temples of the Zentsuji and Tadotsu areas, we also visited local historical sites and festivals.  Additionally, we spent the night at Zentsuji Temple, and on the morning of the second day, we recited sutras with the temple’s monks.  More than ever before, this Pilgrimage Experience was full of fun events and experiences.
Early on the morning of May 19, 2012, pilgrims from 8 different countries gathered at the Kaikosha (former Japanese Army Officer’s Club) in Zentsuji.  From there we set out by bus for Mt. Osayama, from which we had a beautiful view of the town below.  At the peak of the mountain is Japan’s oldest Kofun tomb, the Noda-in.  While examining it, we reflected on the powerful, ancient clan leaders buried inside.

Spider’s silken web
Enshrined in the sepulcher-
Ancient kofun tomb

We went down from the mountain to Zentsuji, where we readied our byakue (white vests), wagesa (sashes), sugegasa (sedge hats), and kongozue (walking staffs) - the essential accessories for walking the pilgrimage path.  We entered and observed the temple sanctuary, where we marveled at the wondrous architecture of the five storied pagoda (Japan’s third tallest), and we learned about the history of the temple.  We then set off on the pilgrimage path.

The path in this area wound through expansive fields, and as we continued west, it gradually inclined to become a steep hill.  They say that one’s kongozue is the embodiment of Kukai, and when you walk the pilgrimage path you actually walk together with Kukai himself.  I was thinking about this, when I noticed the pilgrims up ahead seemed to all be stepping gingerly around something in the group’s path.  When I finally approached the spot, I discovered what was causing the commotion.

Pilgrims step around
A woolly caterpillar
Boldly moving on

During this particular Pilgrimage Experience, we were given the chance not only to visit the area’s temples, but also to engage with the local culture, as well.  On the way between Zentsuji and Shusshakaji, we stopped off at the Zentsuji Flower Festival.  People were gathered from near and far to enjoy this grand celebration of flowers.  I found the path leading from the garden entrance to the hill just to the south was particularly beautiful as the gradual slope was covered with beautiful, colorful flowers.  As I stood on the slope, I took a pleasant moment to myself to look out over the plain expanding below and to enjoy the quiet.

Brilliant on the hill- 
Cherry sage blossoms before
A summer backdrop

Thirty minutes later, we set out again, and we climbed up to Shusshakaji Temple.  Inside the temple sanctuary, we ate our bento lunch boxes and then we learned the following Kukai legend connected to the temple:

When Kukai was seven years old, he was praying on top of the cliff just to the south of the temple.  He invoked the Buddha saying, “I seek the true road of the Buddha that I may help save many people.  If you will grant me this wish, then appear and save me.  If my wish is not to be granted, then I give my life to you.”  Thus, he flung himself from the cliff.  However, the Buddha and his angels immediately appeared and saved Kukai from falling to his death.

We discovered that this story is the origin of the temple and cliff names.  Shusshakaji means “temple where the Buddha appeared,” and Sutemigatake means “cliff from which he flung himself.”

Up and back toward
Sutemigatake Cliff’s
Summer scenery

After Shusshakaji, we were off to Mandaraji and then Koyamaji.  We returned to Zentsuji by the early evening.  We enjoyed soaking in the temple’s hot spring bath, and then we feasted on shojin-ryori, delicious vegetarian cuisine held to be the staple of Japan’s Buddhist monks.  By 9 p.m. it was time for bed.  We then woke up the next morning at 5 a.m. sharp and we headed to the temple’s Miedo Hall (the main hall), where the head priest of the temple gave a religious sermon.  After the sermon was completed, all of the assembled monks began to chant marvelous sutras, a practice called o-tsutome.  The reverberations of their sonorous voices not only echoed throughout the ornately decorated hall, but they also touched something deep inside all of us.

A summer morning
And the chanting of sutras
Echo in the heart

We grabbed our sedge hats and walking staffs and departed from Zentsuji.  At the next temple, Konzoji, the image that stuck in my mind was that of pilgrims spinning the wooden beads of an enormous juzu prayer bead strand hanging from the temple ceiling.  We were all a little tired from the previous day’s long walk and the early start to the morning, so we sought some shade for a brief rest. 

Pilgrims in summer
Gather in the cool shade of
A great camphor tree

Our final temple of the experience was Doryuji in Tadotsu.  From there we walked the last couple of hundred meters toward JR Tadotsu Station, and we put away our vests, hats, and staffs, thus ending our adventure.  However, the memories from these two days of wonderful experiences remain vividly: six temples, kofun tombs, townscapes, mountains, and flowers.  To me, the most beautiful memory I will take from the trek is that of our procession of pilgrims meandering through the glowing, golden fields of wheat.  It was truly a valuable experience walking together with Kukai and experiencing the early summer season.

A procession of
sedge hats weaving through the fields-
Golden ears of wheat

My Haiku for the Inaugural Inland Sea International Platform Symposium

Inland Sea in spring
Bonds of friendship connecting
People near and far

日本語

The Highest Temple

日本語
At 8 a.m. on October 29, 2011, our group of foreign resident pilgrims departed from Kanonji City in the western part of Kagawa Prefecture.  Our destination that day was Unpenji, a temple located far away from any train station or bus stop.  We drove south quite some distance toward the towering mountains, and we eventually stopped to stretch our legs at Honen-ike Dam, a wonderful piece of architecture built during Japan’s Taisho period (1912-1926).  The dam’s silhouette traced a marvelous line on the bright blue sky.  Thinking of the dam’s history and the power of the water contained behind its stone walls, I felt both impressed and humbled.
Magnificent - 
Honenike Dam
Against the Autumn Sky

We boarded our bus once more and traveled to Kyu-Manda Toge, a place where roads come to a single junction from the three prefectures of Kagawa, Tokushima, and Ehime.  We put on our henro gear and began our ascent.  As we walked along the Henro Path, we could see far out to the majestic mountains in the distance.  Along the road bloomed many autumn flowers, in the midst of green plants and trees.

Walking the road –
Japanese pampas grass
Waving

We walked more than 6 km and finally arrived at Unpenji, the tallest of all 88 temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage Circuit.  The well-kept temple looked superb surrounded by old, tall trees beneath the clear sky.  Near the Daishi-do Hall, we found a “maniguruma,” a stone wheel carved with sutras written in Sanskrit.  It is said that if you spin the wheel once, it is the same as reciting the entire sutra.  We each took our turn to receive the sutra’s blessing. 

Autumn Peak –
Spinning the blessings
Of the Maniguruma

We took a break to eat our lunches, and then during the time remaining we walked around the temple grounds.  A little way from the Main Hall, we found a rare “neshaka,” a statue of the Buddha lying in repose – some say this is the pose that most fully demonstrates the realization of nirvana.  There were many other interesting sights, including an observation point and a gondola traveling up the mountain from below.  However, the most memorable sight by far was that of the 500 “rakan,” stone statues of bodhisattvas with strange outfits and hairstyles, doing such things as drinking alcohol, exploding with laughter, and various other activities rather unbefitting enlightened Buddhist sages.  The statues lined the road and saw us off as we made our exit.

Autumn colors -
Blushing cheeks of
Rakan sages

We quickly descended the mountain, enjoying the sunlight and the surrounding nature as we went.  We pondered Kukai, the Buddhist monk who inspired the 88 temple pilgrimage, his legacy that perseveres to this day, and the very deep meaning behind the pilgrimage circuit.  We arrived to the place where our return bus was waiting, folded our pilgrim vests, and returned our walking sticks and sedge hats to their places.  Thus, our day’s pilgrimage adventure came to a close.

The Priceless Treasure of Walking the Henro Path

Spring and autumn are lovely seasons in Japan, and during each of these extremely beautiful times of the year the Kagawa International Affairs Division holds its Shikokku 88 Temple Pilgrimage Experience for International Residents and Visitors.  Twice each year, we venture out to some of Kagawa’s superb Buddhist Temples, learning about Kobodaishi Kukai (the legendary monk who inspired the creation of the pilgrimage circuit), the pilgrimage’s history, and the living pilgrimage culture that thrives to this day.

This spring, on Saturday May 14^th, we took a trip far out to the western reaches of the prefecture and visited three temples in Mitoyo City and Kanonji City: Daikoji, Kannonji, and Jinnein.  The walk was as beautiful as ever, and rather pleasant and easy-going, as it was a rather flat course.

What made this experience particularly interesting were the guests in attendance.  We were very lucky to have the Ambassador of Thailand, His Excellency Virasakdi Futrakul, Mrs. Futrakul, and Minister Counselor Waravudh Pouapinya of the Thai Embassy in attendance.  In addition, we were happy to be joined by David Moreton, an expert on the Shikoku’s 88 Sacred Temples who currently teaches at Tokushima Bunri University, and many local international residents of Kagawa.

What was particularly interesting on this trip was learning from our guests from Thailand about their take on Buddhism.  Some of their delegation are extremely devout Buddhists, and it was truly inspiring to see the awe and reverence which they directed at not only the temples, but the whole walking experience.

The temples of Kannonji and Jinnein actually share a single site very near the sea in Kanonji City, and it was there that we received another very interesting surprise.  The assistant head priest of the temples, after giving us a very moving speech about the necessity of approaching the pilgrimage (as well as life in general) with a healthy sense of balance, treated us to the rare sight of the temples’ treasure room, where we found ancient drawings, statues, and Buddhist implements.  I will always remember how one of the members of the Thai delegation took the time in that room to bow so deeply before these priceless Buddhist treasures that his head just about touched the floor. 

Something else that I will always remember is the wonderful feeling of being closer to nature and closer to the companions surrounding me as we ticked off the kilometers on our trek.  I am fortunate that I will continue to experience such valuable memories when we set off again in the autumn!

By Chris McCabe

Adventure On Goshikidai

日本語
Our group of foreign resident “Henro” pilgrims assembled on Sunday November 14, 2010 in the quiet space of Kokubunji Temple.  After paying our respects there, we set about climbing the steep path up Goshikidai Plateau.  As we made our approach to the summit, many of us were breathing quite hard.  However, we all experienced something just below the peak that really lifted our spirits back up.  We had heard that if you hold out birdseed at a certain spot on the trail, then small birds called yamagara (cyanistes varius) will flock down from the surrounding trees.  When we actually tried this, we found that, sure enough, it worked!  Having these birds lithely perch on and peck the seeds from our hands was a thrill that brought us all a very warm feeling of happiness. 

Such wonderful joy!

Offering up birdseed to
The yamagara

We reached the top of the plateau and headed for Shiramineji.  As we walked, the trees would sometimes open up and we could see the Sanuki Plains, dotted with hills painted a deep autumn red.  We bowed our heads at the main hall when we arrived at Shiramineji.  To the side of the hall was a yellow maple tree burning with vivid brightness, and it was as if we could feel the presence of the Buddha himself.

The late autumn leaves

Of Shiramine Temple
Shining Brilliantly

We trod for many kilometers on the undulating path leading from Shiramineji to Negoroji.  Our legs began to tire, but we finally reached the last temple of our trek.  The assistant head priest of Negoroji was kind enough to greet us and talk to us about the origin of the temple’s name, its history, and its legends.  Among his stories, the most interesting by far was that of the “Cow Demon.”  This was a monster of lore who was said to have terrorized the local citizens.  However, an intrepid archer came, and after praying at the temple for 21 days, he set out and defeated the great Cow Demon.  The Cow Demon’s horns are said to be kept at the temple to this day, and there is a frightening statue of the beast near the main gate, with his claws perpetually pointed out in animosity.

Gazing away at

Early winter maple leaves –
Cow Demon’s Statue

Our band of pilgrims left Negoroji, and strung out along the mountain road, we slowly made our way to Kinashi Station, our ending point.  After 18 kilometers of pilgrimage, our hearts were very content.

Journey to the Hidden Mountain Temple

日本語

I worked as an Assistant Language Teacher (ALT) for the two years from August 2006 to August 2008 at Toyonaka Junior High School in Mitoyo City, Kagawa Prefecture.  However, during that whole time, I never once set foot inside Motoyamaji despite the fact that I commuted to work everyday on the street that runs right in front of the temple.  I finally took my first steps inside on April 24, 2010 during the 5th Shikoku 88 Temple Circuit Experience for Foreign Residents and Visitors, with a group of fifteen other “pilgrims.”  We took in the gracefully curved lines of the temple’s Main Hall, which was built during the Kamakura Period (1185-1333) and is a designated National Treasure, and we peered up at the towering five-storied pagoda.  The beauty of the temple made me think to myself, “Why didn’t I come here sooner?” 
Gazing up, up at
The temple’s tall pagoda -
Awash in Spring’s calm

Our group left Motoyamaji and set off to the north.  We passed Mitoyo’s plentiful reservoirs and its low, rolling plains as we hiked 11 km up a path that gradually became steeper.  We then reached the base of Kengozan Mountain, where we began our ascent up the steep path.  On the way we saw a rest stop called the Haiku Jaya, on the walls of which were hung hundreds upon hundreds of haiku poems, written by pilgrims passing on their way through.  We saw a strange piles of rocks called the “Sai no Kawara,” which are said to have been made by the spirits of deceased young children in a display of respect for their parents and ancestors.  We also saw the awesomely tall statue of Kongoken Bosatsu, or the bodhisattva with clasped hands, bending down to greet us as we passed by before finally arriving at Iyadaniji.  I found it enchanting that, even though the temple cannot be seen from below on the approach, when you look out from its inner sanctuary, you can see the whole of Mitoyo City lying before you.  It was truly a beautiful view.  

Clear, shining spring day -
Secretly hidden temple
In the mountain folds

At Iyadaniji, the Daishi Hall (the hall dedicated to Kōbōdaishi Kūkai, the Buddhist monk who is credited with founding the Shikoku Pilgrimage) is built into a mountain cave called the Shishi no Iwaya – the Lion’s Mouth Cave.  Here the chief priest gave us an explanation of the history of the temple, as well as an introduction to some of the special customs of Iyadaniji, such as the “Iyadani Mairi,” in which people bring the hair and finger nails of the deceased members of their family as offerings.  After this, we hiked a little higher up to see the Main Hall and the images of the Buddha carved into the mountain wall before attempting the perilous downhill descent of the Pilgrimage Trail.  Here, the path completely crumbled away at certain points and it merged with a mountain stream at others.  Though it felt dangerous at times, we couldn’t help but be mesmerized by the beauty of the sunlight filtering through the mountain’s green trees.  We made a leisurely walk of the last 6 km to Kaiganji Station, and beneath the sunset of a gentle evening sky, the 5th Henro Experience came to a close.
 
Exiting the woods
At the skirt of the mountain –
Pilgrims clad in white

The Autumn Road Connecting Yashima and Yakuri

日本語

On the cloudy morning of November 28, 2009, 17 pilgrims assembled from seven different countries at Kotoden Yashima Station before setting out for the slopes of Yashima Mountain, covered in its autumn red.  When we reached Yashimaji Temple at the top of the mountain, we prayed at the Main Hall and at the Daishi Hall.  Then, as we enjoyed the surrounding nature, we tried a hand at
kawaranage.*

facing the valley,
throwing clay kawarake**
into the north wind

*kawaranage: a custom of making a wish as you throw small clay disks from a mountain or tall place
** kawarake: the clay disks thrown in kawaranage.

At the lookout point called “Shi-shi no Reigan,” we felt the cool wind on our skin, and we quietly composed haiku poems as we looked out at the calm Seto Inland Sea.

autumn’s red colors –
writing poetry at the
top of Yashima

Right before leaving Yashima, we discovered a solitary maple tree, whose　red leaves were flowing altogether in the gently blowing wind.  Those leaves were like a flame dancing atop a candlewick.

redly, more redly
a solitary maple’s
burning autumn leaves

We trekked from the top of Yashima to the middle of Gokenzan Mountain, and then we arrived at the Main Hall of Yakuriji Temple.  The Assistant Head Priest of the temple then treated us to warm amazake# and friendly conversation.

autumn pilgrims and
a welcome helping of some
sweet amazake


#amazake: sweet, lightly alcoholic drink made from fermented rice

Right as we were about to climb down from Yakuriji Temple, we looked up to see the clean rock face of Gokenzan Mountain clearly above us.

slopes all decked in red,
towering into the sky:
Gokenzan Mountain